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TRAVELOGUE [MALAYALAM]


MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM - TRAVELOGUE
\½psS DÀtÇw bm{X

SAINT GEEVARGHESE MAR GREGORIOS OF PARUMALA

JERUSALEM SURROUNDED BY MOUNTAINS
]ÀÆX§fmð NpÁs¸« DuÀtÇw

thZw ]dbpóXpt]mse DuÀtÇw ]ÀÆX§fmð NpÁs¸«ncn¡póp. tIm«bv¡p ]pd¯pÅ sI«nS§Ä ]pXpXmbn ]Wnbs¸«hbmIbmð tIm«bv¡pÅnse sI«nS§tf¡mÄ `wKnbpw hen¸hpapïv. ]pd¯pÅ sXcphpIÄ hnkvXmcapÅXpw hïn kômcapÅXpamIpóp. t\scadn¨v tIm«bv¡pÅnð hgnIÄ CSp¡pw IbÁand¡ambn Ið¸SIÄ sh¨n«pÅXpw BIpóXn\mð hïnHm«w Xoscbnñ. Cu hgnIsfñmw shÅ¡ñpIfmð Xfncw CSs¸«ncn¡póp. Nne It¼mf§Ä apgph³ sh×mSambn hf¨ncn¡póXn\mð Xpc¦§Ät]mse tXmón¡pw. shfn¨¯n\mbn apIfnð Zzmc§Ä h¨n«pïv. Xpc¦§Ä t]msebpÅ sXcphpIfnð Ccp]pdhpapÅ jm¸pIÄ `n¯nbnð Xpcópïm¡nb AfIÄ Fót]mse tXmópw.

tIm«bv¡p GItZiw aqóp \mgnI NpÁfhv ImWpw. CXp hfsc I\apÅXpw 10þ12 tImð DbcapÅXpw henb IñpIfmð ]Wnbs¸«XpamIpóp. Nne `mK§Ä ]pXp¸WnbmsW¦nepw ]gb tIm«bpsS inã§Ä Nne Øe§fnepïv. tIm«bnð\nópw \mep `mKt¯¡v Hmtcm tIm«hmXnð Dïv. ]SnªmtdXv sbm¸ hmXnð Fópw Ingt¡Xv FkvX¸mt\mkv hmXnð Fópw sXt¡Xv kotbm³ hmXnð Fópw hSt¡Xv _ms_ð B½qZv Asñ¦nð ZÀ½skm¡v hmXnð Fópw ]dbs¸Spóp. ]e tKm]pc§Ä DÅXnð sbm¸m hmXnent\mSv ASp¯Xn\v ZmhoZnsâ tKm]pcw Fóv t]À ]dIbpw ZmhoZn\mð ]Wnbs¸«sXóv hnizkn¡bpw sN¿póp. CXntòð R§Ä Ibdn hfsc _ehpw Dbchpw DÅ Hcp ]gb ]WnbmIpóp. NpÁpw InS§pIfpw ImWm\pïv. CXv Ct¸mÄ XpÀ¡n ]«mf¯nsâ Bbp[imebmIpóp. ]oc¦nIÄ CXnsâ Dbc¯nð Øm]n¨n«pïv.

tIm«bv¡pÅnepÅ sI«nS§fpw sXcphpIfpw ]pdsabpÅ ]pXnb ]WnItfmfw ImgvNbv¡p `wKnbpw Ae¦mchpw DÅhsb¦nepw hnip² I_À Øm]n¡s¸«ncn¡pó IywXm ]Ånbpw AtXmSv kao]n¨ncn¡póp. AIvk Fó sI«nShpw bhp\mb¡mc³, kpdnbm\n¡mc³, AÀ½\mb¡mc³, e¯o³ImÀ CKp]vXmb¡mÀ, Cu {InkvXob kapZmb§fpsS ]ÅnIÄ, ZbdmIÄ apXembhbpw bqZ¸Ånbpw hen¸¯nepw `wKnbnepw Ae¦mc¯nepw GÁhpw {]iwk\ob§fmIbmð Ch tIm«bv¡I¯pÅ sI«nS§fpsS \yq\XIsf aqSn¡fbpóp Fóp ]dbmw.

IywXm:
Chbnð IÀ¯mhnsâ ip² I_À Ccn¡pó IywXm Fó sI«nSw Ct¸mgs¯ tIm«bv¡I¯p ip² aÀt¡mknsâ Zbdmbv¡v hS¡p `mK¯mIpóp. DuÀtÇanepÅ kIe sI«nS§tf¡mÄ CXp hen¸hpw GÁw Ae¦cn¡s¸«Xpw Xsó. Fñm {InkvXym\n imJIfpw CXns\ `àn]qÀÆw _lpam\n¨p hcpóp. CXnte¡pÅ {]thi\w sX¡phi¯p \nópÅ Hcp {][m\ hmXnðIqSnbmIpóp. bhp\mb¡mÀ¡pw, kpdnbm\n¡mÀ¡pw, e¯o³ImÀ¡pw, CKp]vXmb¡mÀ¡pw ]ÅnIfpw apdnIfpw CXn\pÅnepïv. hnip² I_dnSw, tKmKpð¯m, sle\ncmÚn hnip² Ipcnins\ IsïSp¯ Øew apXembhsbñmw CXn\pÅnð BIpóp. ap³]dª {][m\ hmXnenð XpÀ¡n ]«mfw Ft¸mgpw ImhepÅXpw Xmt¡mð AhcpsS ssIhihpw BIpóp. Fómepw BÀ¡pw Ft¸mgpw CXnð {]thin¨v Bcm[\ Ign¸m³ X¡hmdp kzmX{´y¯nð Ft¸mgpw Xpdóncn¡póp. Cu henb hmXnen\p ap¼nð Hcp apÁhpw Dïv. ChnsSsbt¸mgpw ]«mf¡mcpsS Imhð Dïv. At\Iw sI«nS§Ä Hcn¡ð Hcmfmð ]Wnbs¸«hsbót]mse Hón¡s¸«ncn¡pó Cu sI«nS§Ä¡v H«p¡v IywXm (DbÀ¸v) FómWv t]À hnfn¡s¸SpóXv. F¦nepw B \maw {][m\ambn {]tbmKn¡póXv CXnð ]Snªmdv ASp¯p a²y`mK¯p hfsc Dbc§fnð DÅ hr¯IqSmcamb henb IqSmc¯n\mIpóp. AsX IywXbnse ]e sI«nS§fnðh¨p AXyp¯aambncn¡póXpw CXp Xsó. CXnsâ DÅv 100 tImentòð NpÁfhpw 70 tImentòð Dbchpw ImWpw. CXnse hfhp hmXnepIfpw X¦theIfpw Ae¦mc§fpw Iïmð kzÀ¤temItam Fóp kwibn¨pt]mIpw. `àòmcmbncpó Htcm almcmPm¡òmcmð ]e Ime§fnð sN¿s¸« theIfptSbpw Ae¦mc§fptSbpw {]XnabmWv ChnsS Im×m\pÅ hntij§Ä. ip² kxÀ®hpw shÅnbpw sImïpXsó Dïm¡s¸« hnf¡pIÄ AWnbWnbmbn Xp¡s¸«ncn¡póXpw Ah kzÀ® XpSepIfnepw shÅn XpSepIfnepw Xq§n {]Imin¡póXpw Iïmð I®paôpsaóñmsX Hópw ]dhm\nñ. CXnð cmhpw ]Iepw I¯ns¡mïncn¡pó At\Iw sagpIpXncnIfptSbpw hnf¡pIfptSbpw {]Imiw kqcys\ tXmð¸n¡ptam Fóp tXmónt¸mIpw. IqSmc¯nsâ tað`mK¯pÅ a²yw Hcp henb ho¨phebpsS hr¯w I®mSnsImïv aqSs¸«ncn¡póXn\mð ]pd¯p\nóv kqcysâ civanbpw AIta\nóp At\Imbncw Zo]§fpsS {]Imiw Cu I®mSnbnð ASn¡pt¼mÄ DÅ `wKn AhÀ®\obamIpóp. Cu IqSmcw Fñm {InkvXym\nIÄ¡pw s]mXps¸« Hcp sI«nSamIqóp. CtXmSp tNÀó \mep hit¯m«pamWv Hmtcm kapZmb§fpsS ]ÅnIÄ \nð¡póXv. t\sc Ing¡phiw bh\mb¡mcptSbpw Ae¦mctadnb ]Ån e¯o³ImcpsSbpw ]Snªmdv kpdnbm\n¡mctSbpw sX¡phi¯pÅ sI«nS¯nsâ cïmw \nebnð AÀ½m\mb¡mcptSbpw ]ÅnIÄ BIpóp. HmtcmIq«cpsS ]ÅnItfmSSp¯p taepw Xmsgbpambn apdnIfpw Dïv.

{][m\ IywXm Fóp ]dbs¸Spó hr¯IqSmc¯nsâ \Sphnð Ing¡p]Snªmdmbn GItZiw 14 tImð \ofhpw 4 tImð hoXnbpw AItabpw ]pdtabpw Ae¦mchpapÅ Hcp sNdnb sI«nSw Dïv. CXpw kZmt\chpw hnf¡pIfmepw sagpIpXncnIfmepw {]Imin¡s¸«ncn¡póp. Cu sI«nSw cïp apdnIfmbn Xncn¡s¸«ncn¡póp. ]Snªmsd sNdnb apdnbnð hS¡cnInð Ing¡p ]Snªmdmbn«mWv hnip² I_À Ccn¡póXv. I_dn³ apIÄ amÀ_nÄ IñpsImïv aqSs¸«ncn¡póp. Fñmhcpw IÀ¯mhns\ hnfn¡bpw {]mÀ°n¡bpw sN¿póXv Cu Øe¯mIpóp. CXnte¡p {]thin¡phm³ Ings¡apdnbnð\nóv Hcp sNdnbhmXnepw Ings¡ apdn¡p IywXm IqSmc¯nð \nóp {]thin¡phm³ Ing¡phi¯v Hcp hmXnepw Dïv. Cu Ings¡apdn Hcp shÅ¡ñpÅ IÀ¯mhnsâ I_dn³ hmXp¡ð h¨ncpóXpw ssZhZqXòmÀ CcpóXpamb B IñmIpóp. Cu apdnIÄ cïpw amÀ_nÄ IñpsImïv ]Wnbs¸«ncn¡póp. IywXmbnð CKp]vXmb¡mÀ¡v ]Ånsbóp ]dbs¸Smhpó Hcp {]tXyI sI«nSw Csñ¦nepw hr¯IqSmc¯nð hnip² I_dnð apdnbpsS ]Snªmtd `n¯ntbmSv tNÀ¯p IvtZmivIZoim Fó ]WnItfmSpIqSnb Hcp t{XmtWmkv am{Xw Dïv.

IywXmbpsS ]Smªmdphi¯pÅ ]Ånbpw AtXmSptNÀóv taepw Xmsgbpw DÅ apdnIfpw kpdnbm\n¡mcmb \½psS hIbpw Ct¸mgpw \½psS ssIhiw Ccn¡póXpw BIpóp. Ipd¨pImew ap¼v Iptd \mft¯¡p Cu Øew AÀ½\mb¡mÀ¡p ip{iqj sNbvhm³ hn«psImSp¯ncpó AhImiw ]dªp AXp AhcptSXmsWóv hmZn¡pópsï¦nepw hyhlmcw kpdnbm\n¡mÀ¡p A\pIqeambncn¡póXv am{Xañ, Ct¸mgpw \½psS ssIhihpw BIpóp. Cu ]ÅnbpsS sXs¡ `n¯ntað DÅ Hcp hmXnð Xpdómð Hcp Kplbpw AXnð cïp IñdIfpw Hópcïv IpgnIfpw ImWmw. IñdIfnð Hóv \nt¡mZotamkntâbpw atÁXp Adna¯nbm¡mc³ butk¸nsâbpw I_dpIÄ BIpóp. {][m\ IywXmbnte¡pÅ sXt¡ henb hmXnð ISóp AIt¯¡p {]thin¡pó Øe¯p Hcp shÅ¡ñpïv. AXp IÀ¯mhns\ Ipcninð \nónd¡nh¨p Ipfn¸n¨ IñmIpóp. IÀ¯mhns\ Ipfn¸n¨ kabw I\ymkv{XoA½ IcªpsImïncpó Øew CXn\p ]Snªmdp hi¯mIpóp.

tKmKpð¯m ]Ån::
IÀ¯mhns\ Ipcninð Xq¡nb tKmKpð¯m ]Ån AÀ½\mb¡mcpsS ap³]dª ]ÅnbpsS t\sc Ing¡phi¯mIpóp. CXp IywXmbpsS Xd\nc¸nð\nóv F«p]¯p tImð DbÀóXmIpóp. CXnð hS¡pIngs¡ AcnInepÅ t{XmtWmknsâ Iogv Hcp amÀ_nÄ Iñpw AXnsâ \Sphnð Iotgm«v Hcp Zzmchpapïv. IÀ¯mhnsâ Ipcnip \m«nb Iñpw AXnsâ Zzmchpw Cu amÀ_nfnsâ t\sc IogmIpóp. B hnip² Øe¯nsâ _lpam\¯n\p thïn amÀ_nÄsImïv aqSn sh¨ncn¡póXmWv. Ipcnip \m«nb Zzmcw shÅnbS¸psImïv AS¨ncn¡póp. Cu AS¸pXpdóp I¿n«pt\m¡póXn\pw hntcm[anñ. CXn\p sX¡phi¯v IpcnipacW kab¯p AÛpXambn ]nfÀó ]mdbpw AXnsâ hnShpw Im×m\pïv. CXn\pw _lpam\¯n\mbn hnShpÅ Hcp amÀ_nÄ Iñn\mepw hnShv ]n¯f XInSn\mepw aqSs¸«ncn¡póp. XInSp \n¡nt\m¡nbmð km£mð ]md ]nfÀóncn¡póXv [mcmfw ImWmw. Cu ]mdbpsS ASnbnð IñSmhp ]ÅnbmWv. AXnð Cd§n taðt¸m«p t\m¡nbmð Cu ]nfÀ¸v ]mdbpsS F¯nbncn¡póXp kv]jvSambn ImWmhpóXmWv.

IñSmhp ]Ån:
Cu IñSmhp ]Ånbnse t{XmtWmknsâ Ingt¡ `n¯nbmIpó ]mdbnð BZmansâ XetbmSv sh¨ncpóp Fópw að¡nktZ¡p AhnsS A¸hpw hoªpw sImïp _enIgn¨ncpóp Fópw a\pjyhÀ¤¯nsâ c£¡mbn IÀ¯mhnsâ hnemhnð\nóp HgpInb càw ]md ]nfÀó hnShnð IqSn HgpIn a\pjyPmXnbpsS ]nXmhmb BZmansâ incknð hoWp Fópw {]mNo\ {InkvXob ]mc¼cyw ]Tn¸n¡póp.

]nfÀó ]mdtað Øm]n¨ncn¡pó tað¸dª amÀ_nÄ Iñn\p sX¡phiàv Hcp t{XmtWmkpw AXntòð amÀ_nfnð sIm¯nbpïm¡nb ssZhamXmhnsâ Hcp cq]hpw Dïv. Cu cp]w hnetbdnb cXvó§fmð Ae¦cn¡s¸«ncn¡póp. CXn\pw sX¡v ssZhamXmhnsâ \ma¯nð Hcp t{XmtWmkpïv. IpcnipacW¯n¦ð amXmhpw tbmlóm³ Gh³tKenØ\pw \nóncpóXp Cu Øe¯mbncpóp Fóp ]dbpóp.

bhp\mb]ÅnbpsS Ing¡phi¯p IywXmbpsS Xd\nc¸nð\nóv F«p ]¯p tImð XmWv sle\ncmÚnbptSsXóv ]dbs¸Spó ]Ånbpw AXn\p sX¡pIng¡mbn F«p]¯p tImð XmgvNbnð ip²Ipcnip Isï¯nb Kpl Fóp ]dbs¸Spó ]Ånbpw \nð¡póp. ChnsSbpÅ t{XmtWmkntòð sle\n ip²Ipcnip ]nSn¨p sImïp \nð¡pó Hcp cq]w amÀ_nfnð sIm¯nsh¨n«pïv. DbÀ¸nsâtijw IÀ¯mhv aKvZsse¯mbv¡p ImWs¸«Xp {][m\ IywXmbnbv¡pw e¯o³]Ån¡pw CSbnemIpóp. e¯o¼ÅnbnepÅ Hcp t{XmtWmknsâ Hcp`mK¯p Hcp IðXqWpïv. CXv Iãm\p` _p[\mgvN am{Xta Xpd¡s¸SpIbpÅp. AS¨ncn¡pt¼mgpw Hcp Zzmc¯nð IqSn ImWmhpóXpw B Zzmc¯nð Hcp tImð C«ncn¸pÅXpw BIpóp. IÀ¯mhns\ sI«nb Xq¬ Fóp CXnt\¡pdn¨p ]dbs¸Spóp. iXm[n]\mb semônt\mkns\ inctÑZ\w sNbvX Øew, IÀ¯mhnsâ hkv{Xw No«vbn« Øew apXembn ]eXpw Ipdn¡pó apdnIÄ bhp\mb ]Ån¡pw e¯o³ ]Ån¡pw CSbnembncpóp. Chbnð Hmtcm t{XmtWmkpw Dïv. Cu ]dª sI«nS§sfñmw IywXm Fó s]mXpt¸cnð DÄs¸« {_lvamÞ sI«nS§fnð DÄs¸«hbmIpóp. hnip² I_dpw tKmKpð¯mbpw Ct¸mÄ bhp\mb¡mÀ, AÀ½\mb¡mÀ, kpdnbm\n¡mÀ, e¯o³ImÀ, CKp]vXmb¡mÀ Cu kaql§Ä¡p IÀ½w Ign¸m³ XpeymhImiapÅ s]mXpØe§Ä BIpóp. amtdm\mb¡mÀ¡pw s\tkvXmÀ¡mÀ¡pw IywXmbnð Nne AhImi§fpw Øe§fpw ap³Ime§fnð Dïmbncpóp. Ct¸mÄ AhÀ¡pw Cw¥ojpImÀ¡pw Hcp kw_Ôhpw AhImihpanñ. Cw¥ojpImÀ¡p kotbm\nepw aÁpw Nne anjy³ ]ÅnIfpw kvIqfpIfpapïv. IywXmbn¡p ]pds¯¦nepw A[nIw AIeañmsX bhp\mb¡mÀ¡pw e¯o³ImÀ¡pw CKp]vXmb¡mÀ¡pw AÀ½\mb¡mÀ¡pw henb ]ÅnIfpw ZbdmIfpw thsdbpw Dïv.

CKp]vXmb¡mcpsS ZbdmbpsS ap³hi¯p Hcp ssk¯phr£w Im×m\pÅXp A{_lmw Ckvlm¡ns\ _enIgn¸m³ `mhn¨t¸mÄ B«psImÁ³ _Ôn¡s¸«Xmbn Iï B hr£amsWóp ]dbpóp. Ct¸mÄ Im×m\pÅXp B hr£saóñ, Hcp ]gb hr£¯nsâ aq«nð InfnÀ¯phó henbXpw sNdnbXpamb ]e hr£§fpsS tiJcambn«s{X. CXnsâ inJnc§fnð NneXp \mw HSns¨Sp¯p.

tÇt½msâ tZhmebw:
tÇt½msâ tZhmebw ]«W¯nsâ sX¡pIngs¡ tImWnð tamdnbm aetað Bbncpóp. Cu Øe¯p Ct¸mÄ Hcp henb aXnðsI«pw DÅnð al½Zp]Ånbpw \nð¡póp. Ing¡pw sX¡papÅ aXnð tIm«XsóbmIpóp. Ingt¡m«v _mt_ðZldnsbm (Ftó¡papÅ hmXnð) Fóp ]dbs¸Spó Hcp henb hmXnð DïmbncpóXp Ct¸mÄ sI«nbS¨ncn¡póp. IÀ¯mhp IgpXtað hml\tadn tZhmeb¯nte¡p FgpóÅnbXp Cu hmXnð hgnbmbncpóp Fóp ]dbpóp. C{ktbensâ {][m\ ssZhmcm[\ Øehpw IÀ¯mhns\ ImgvNsh¨Xpw Xm³ ]et¸mgpw Ccpóp ]Tn¸n¨Xpamb B tZhmebw Ccpó Øe¯p Ct¸mÄ \nð¡pó al½Zp]Ån F«p]«¯nð hntijambn XoÀ¡s¸« Hcp sh×mS sI«nSamIpóp. Hmtcm ]«¯nð 30, 40 tImð \ofw ImWpw. CXnsâ DÄ`mKw cïv ]´n¯qWpIfmð hr¯ambn Xncn¡s¸«ncn¡pó cïp DÄ`mK§fpw AXn\pÅ 60 tImenð IpdbmsX DbcapÅ Hcp hr¯IqSmchpw BIpóp. CXn\pÅnð Xd\nc¸nð\nópw GItZiw Igpt¯mfw Dbc¯nð Hcp henb ]mdbpÅXns\¡pdn¨p al½Zp kzÀ¤mtcmlWw sNbvXt¸mÄ Cu ]mdbpw taðt¸m«p DbÀóp Fópw K{_ntbð aep¡p ]nSn¨p\nÀ¯n hfsc¡met¯mfw \newsXmSmsX \nóp Fópw ]nóoSp Iosg `n¯nsI«n Dd¸n¨XmsWópw al½ZpImÀ Hcp hymP ]ga ]dI ]XnhpÅXv \t½mSpw ]dªp.

K{_ntbð ]nSn¨t¸mÄ ]XnªsXóp ]dbpó ssIhncepIfpsS ASbmfhpw CXntòð tcJs¸Sp¯nbn«pïv. Cu ]mdbpsS Iogp Hcp KplbpÅXp \n_namcpsS {]mÀ°\m Øeambncpópt]mepw. KplbpsS a²y¯nð hmXnð AS¨ncn¡pó Hcp InWÀ Dïv. C{ktbð _enIgn¨Xv Cu ]mdtað Bbncpóp Fópw al½ZpImÀ ]dbpóp. Cu ]ÅnbpsS sX¡p Cu aXnðsI«nðXsó tIm«tbmSptNÀ¯p AIvkm]Ån Fóp ]dbs¸Spó Hcp henb sI«nSw Dïv. ainlmbps« Imð]mZw ]Xnª]md, Hm½mdv DuÀtÇante¡p {]thin¨t¸mÄ BZyw Ccpóp {]mÀ°n¨ Øew apXembh R§sf ImWn¨p. A\´cw CXn\p IogpÅ Hcp apdnbnte¡pw AhnsS \nópw Ið¯q¬ \ncIfmð \ndª Hcp henb ]mXmfapdnbnte¡pw AhÀ R§sf sImïpt]mbn ImWn¨p. XqWpIfpsS Nph«nð Hmtcm Zzmcw DÅXp Ipcnipbp²¡mÀ IpXncIsf sI«nbXmsWóp ]dbpóp. Ct¸mÄ apóqdnð IpdbmsX XqWpIÄ Dïv. ap¼v aqhmbncw Dïmbncpópt]mepw. CXn\p hS¡p`mK¯p shÅw kq£n¡pó InWdpIÄ hfsc Dsïópw ]mXmfapdn tÈt½m³ Xsó ]Wnbn¨XmsWópw ]d¨nð Dïv. CXp IqSmsX aXneI¯p hS¡Sp¯p Ings¡ tIm«tbmSptNÀóp Hcp sNdnb sI«nSw DÅXp tÈt½msâ Ccn¸nSambncpóp Fópw kp`mjnX§Ä FgpXnbXv ChnsS sh¨mbncpóp Fópw ]dbpóp.

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