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TRAVELOGUE [MALAYALAM]


1895 SHIP JOURNEY THROUGH MIDDLE EAST SEA ROUTE OF SAINT GEEVARGHESE MAR GREGORIOS

[ As few Geographical Maps are used in this Article, it is advisable to read the Article in PC/Laptop than Mobile Devices. All the Maps in the Article are not to scale, only indicative and no politcal significance]

Ruminating on St. Geevarghese Mar Gregorios of Parumala’s (Parumala Thirumeni) historic 1895 pilgrimage from Kerala to Jerusalem bridges modern Gulf geography with an era when West Asian Sea routes were navigated by faith, steamships, and endurance. His documented voyage offers a profound look at cross-cultural maritime transitions of the late 19th century.

In 1895, St. Geevarghese Mar Gregorios of Parumala embarked on a landmark pilgrimage to Jerusalem. His travelogue, Oorslem Yathra Vivaranam ("My Journey to Jerusalem"), features vivid descriptions of maritime travel in Chapter 2 ("Ship Journey"), capturing the vastness of the sea and the realities of early trans-Asian sea voyages.

The 1895 Sea Passage:

  • Departure from India: After consecrating the Parumala Church, Mar Gregorios traveled from Cochin to Bombay by train in early 1895, joined by an entourage of prominent future church leaders.

  • The Route: Starting from Kerala, the entourage traveled via Cochin and Bombay before boarding a steamer bound for the Middle East.

  • Marine Environment: The text describes the deep, unpredictable rhythms of the Arabian Sea and Red Sea routes, noting the weather, waves, and life aboard a steamship.

  • Arrival and Port Context: The sea route led them into regional ports (including stops near Egypt/the Levant region like Port Said), reflecting the interconnected waterways of the Red Sea and Mediterranean approaches well before modern air transit.

  • Historical Significance: It stands as an early Malayalam travelogue prose work documenting international geography, blending spiritual reflection with empirical observation of West Asian coastal routes.


    1895 Sea Route From Bombay in India To Port Said in Egypt

    In the travelogue chapter of his sea voyage from Bombay to Port Said, Gregorios Thirumeni (Saint Gregorios) provides clear details of the locations along the route. He mentions Bab el-Mandeb near Abyssinia, describing it as the "Gate of Grief." Abyssinia he referred is the historical name for the region that is now Ethiopia, located in the Horn of Africa. The name also historically covered parts of modern-day Eritrea in its northern highlands.He also recounts passing Jabel Sager, a mountain located in the southern part of Yemen. Seeing rock mountains he calls the "Twelve Apostles". Although these rock formations do not appear on standard geographical maps of that era, a 1932 sailor’s diary references the "Twelve Apostles" in the Red Sea near the coast of Yemen, likely equating it with the Kamaran Island. Furthermore, he refers to Aden and the Gulf of Aden. Also Thirumeni referred to Biblical and historical records that Solomon built a fleet of merchant ships at Ezion-geber (near modern Aqaba/Eloth) on the shore of the Red Sea/Gulf of Aqaba. Berenice Harbor is an ancient seaport on the western coast of Egypt's Red Sea in Northeast Africa.

    The standards of measurement he used were the contemporary standards of his homeland. In traditional Kerala architecture and measurements (Vasthuvidya þ hmkvXphnZy), one Kol (tImð) (measuring rod or Muzhakol þ apgt¡mð) is standardized as 72 centimeters (2.36 feet). Therefore, 90 Kol is equivalent to 64.8 meters, or approximately 212.6 feet (6,480 centimeters). In traditional Malayalam measurements, "Nazhika" (\mgnI) primarily measures time (1 Nazhika = 24 minutes), but it is also used colloquially as a unit of distance (\mgnIZqcw) , representing the distance a person can walk in one Nazhika of time, which is roughly 1.60 kilometers (1 mile). Therefore, 80 Nazhika of distance is equivalent to approximately 128 kilometers (80 miles). For measure of light he uses visiblity of reading. For comfortable book reading, a dedicated task light should output about 400 to 480 lumens (equal to a traditional 40-to-60 watt bulb), delivering an intensity of 300 to 500 lux.

    His meticulous description of the man-made Suez Canal depicts it as a one-way strait spanning around 65 meters in width - barely wider than a steamship - and stretching 80 miles in length. He carefully notes the daily engineering maintenance required to widen the canal, which relied on manual labor to constantly remove sand. This commentary reveals his profound knowledge and pursuit of science, geography, and general information, despite his life being deeply rooted in a routine of continuous prayer. It is remarkable that Thirumeni recorded such precise geographical observations 130 years ago, long before the internet or modern reference sources existed.


    Land and Sea en route Port Said

    Modern Parallels in the Gulf:

  • Shared Geography: Today's travelers crossing the Arabian Gulf and Red Sea retrace similar maritime corridors navigated by steamships over a century ago.

  • Shifting Perspective: Modern transit replaces weeks of steamship travel with quick flights, yet the sea boundaries and coastal landscapes remain critical to the region's identity.

    -Contemplations by the Editor


  • MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM - TRAVELOGUE
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    SAINT GEEVARGHESE MAR GREGORIOS OF PARUMALA

    SHIP JOURNEY
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    22þmw XobXn _p[\mgvN AôpaWn¡v ko\mbn ]ÀÆX\ncIÄ ImWs¸«p. ssZhw tami¡v \ymb{]amWw Ið¸n¨p sImSp¯ ]ÀÆXw CXmsWóv ]dªv, Chbnð DbcapÅ Hcp ]ÀÆXw I¸ð¡mÀ R§Ä¡v ImWn¨p. Cu ]ÀÆX§Ä Fñmw IðaeIÄ BWv. hr£§Ä Im×m\nñmbncpóp. Aóp cm{Xn Ggp aWn¡v kqbkv tXm«papJ¯v F¯n. \¦qcw C«v ]¯paWn hsc ChnsS Xmakn¨p. AXn\nSbnð kqbknð \nópw UmIvSdp hóv Fñmhtcbpw ]cntimZn¨p. I¸ð I¼\n¡mcpsS GPïv hóv I¸n¯m\pambn kw`mjWw \S¯pIbpw tXm«nð I¸ensâ D]tbmK¯n\mbn hnZypiànbmð {]Imin¸n¡pó Hcp {_lvamÞamb hnft¡mSpIqSn AXns\ {]hÀ¯n¸n¡pó aqómfpIÄ I¸enð {]thin¡bpw sNbvXp. CXv tIhew Hcp hnf¡ñ Hcp henb b{´saóp thWw ]dhm³. Hcp ssaenð A[nIw AIse ]pkvXIw hmbn¡phm³ X¡h®w hnf¡n\v {]Imiw Dïv hnf¡v z]Imin¨t¸mÄ ]«W¯nð DÅ ]e `h\§fpw I¸enð Ccpóv R§Ä¡v shSn¸mbn ImWmdmbn. tXmSnsâ InS¹v sX¡phS¡pw R§fpsS bm{X hSt¡m«pw BWv. tXmSn\v GItZiw 80 tImð hoXnbpw 90 \mgnI \ofhpw ImWpw C{Xbpw hnkvXmcancpómepw Hcp I¸ð FXntc hómð AXv ISópt]mIpóXphsc atÁXv ASp¯pInS¡pI ]XnhmIpóp. tXm«nsâ CcpIcbpw t\m«w F¯m¯h®w hncn¸p\new t]msebpÅ hnfhnñm¯ aWð`qanbmIpóp. ]Snªmdphi¯v Zpsc Nne {Kma§fpw hr£§fpw Dïv. tXm«cpInð Nne IpSnepIfpw kvtÁj\pIfpw am{Xw AhnShnsS Dïv. tXm«nð A§pan§pw Nne t_mbnIfpw (s]m§pXSnIÄ) hnf¡pac§fpw Øm]n¨n«pïv. CcpIc¡pw tXmïn IbÁnbncn¡pó aWð¨nd ags]bvXmð Hen¨nd§phm³ X¡XmIpóp. `mKyhimð B tZi¯v ag B]qÀÆamIpóp. Ct¸mgpw AhnShnsS the¡mÀ \nóv aWðtXmïn hnkvXmcs¸Sp¯pIbpw sdbnð hgn aWð sImïpt]mbn Nne Nne sNdnb DÄ¡mbepIfnð CSpIbpw sNbvXncpóp. kqbknð \nóv t]mÀ«kmbnUnte¡pw aÁpw Xohïnbpw I¼nbpw C«n«pïv.

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